Christophe et Fils Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu 2023

Christophe et Fils is basically a one man show. There’s no sign post chez Sébastien Christophe. He doesn’t need it. His wines aren’t to be found in the local restaurants and no bottles are spared for the expert reviewers. Every year – his entire production is completely pre-sold – mostly to well-heeled private collectors in Britain and a few of the top restaurants in the world.

To hear Sébastien tell it, you don’t even get the impression that he fashions himself a winemaker – he might be more comfortable with the moniker – ‘winegrower’ as he’s really more of a passionate farmer.

Perhaps that’s just in his blood. For the record, Sébastien is an incredible winemaker but he also has a bit of luck on his side. He was lucky enough to inherit some extremely valuable parcels (some his grandfather himself planted back 1959!) located behind the Grand cru slope and Premier crus of the Serein river’s right bank.

This 1er cru comes from vines planted in the 1980s on a moderately steep slope just east of the town of Chablis. This is Kimmeridgian limestone at it’s very best and it radiates through the wine. It’s textbook 1er cru Chablis that slowly unveils incredible depth and sophistication in the glass. You’ve got everything here, lemongrass, grapefruit, chalky minerality, wildflower, and granny smith apple with a wonderful, layered mid-palate and so much focus and energy. What a beauty.