Caparzo has it all. Ever since the picturesque winery was acquired in 1998 by Elisabetta Gnudi Angelini everything started skyrocketing for the small Tuscan winery. Along with their sibling winery, Altesino (which Angelini purchased a few years later) the wineries consistently light up the scoreboard to the tune of 95 points or higher, with Caparzo achieving this for the third time now in four vintages with their green label bottling of Brunello di Montalcino.
Nearly every vintage the Caparzo drinks better than almost any other Brunello I taste in a line up next to it (and I often taste a dozen or so at a time). In a difficult 2017 vintage that became the hottest on record in Montalcino, Caparzo benefitted greatly from having their high altitude vineyard in their own little rolling hill oasis. This protected them from much of the heat and allowed them to make the wine in their own style, whilst many of the winemakers in the regions were left holding on for dear life.
Instead, they turned out a beauty, one that dazzled critics and outpointed and outclassed many Brunelli priced two or three times as high. But at today’s price, this remains one of the only annual genuine Brunello “case buys”.
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93 Points, Wine Spectator
This is the so-called “green label” Brunello with proprietor Elisabetta Gnudi Angelini’s signature on the front of the bottle. Her classic 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is sharp and tonic with wild raspberry, cassis, lilac, earth and garden herb. There is a sweet note of sour cherry on the mid-weight finish. This is made in a traditional approach with two years in casks made with both Slavonian and French oak.
93 Points, James Suckling
Plenty of sweet cherries and plums with some chocolate on both the nose and palate. It’s medium-to full-bodied with medium to full tannins that are plush and succulent. Fresh citrus to the fruit at the end. Remains cool and layered.